Samoa 1913

Rupert Brooke

Rupert Brooke

This post is to celebrate the centenary of when Rupert Brooke visited Samoa. This post is to celebrate the beautiful and unspoilt islands of Samoa.

Rupert Brooke is best known as a WWI poet who wrote the poignant poem The Soldier and Grantchester, in the shire of Cambridge.

The Soldier

IF I should die, think only this of me:
That there’s some corner of a foreign field
That is forever England. There shall be
In that rich earth a richer dust concealed;
A dust whom England bore, shaped, made aware,
Gave, once, her flowers to love, her ways to roam,
A body of England’s, breathing English air,
Washed by the rivers, blest by the suns of home.

And think, this heart, all evil shed away,
A pulse in the eternal mind, no less
Gives somewhere back the thoughts by England given;
Her sights and sounds; dreams happy as her day;
And laughter, learnt of friends; and gentleness,
In hearts at peace, under an English heaven.

Rupert Brooke loved England and the shire of Cambridge (Grantchester), and with next year commemorating the centenary of the beginning of World War I, this poem is going to be right out there in the public eye again.

Rupert Brooke also loved travelling and learning about other cultures and countries. In 1913 he arrived in Samoa, and what did he think of the islands?

“Sheer beauty, so pure that it is difficult to breathe it in”

“The loveliest people in the world, moving and dancing like gods and goddesses, very quietly and mysteriously, and utterly content”



What he experienced remains as true today as it was then, one hundred years ago. Samoa is the sacred centre of the Polynesian Islands, Samoa is Paradise.

Ecuador and conscious tourism; sadly not.

Anna - slide-42-728Last year, Ecuador held a conference called ‘Conscious Tourism’, which was hailed as a wonderful success and a beacon to lead the way forward for tourism. Ecuador made a very bold statement then.

This new strategy was based on the principles of sustainability and ethics; and promoted the values ​​of peace, friendship, respect and love of life as the essence of tourist practice.

n american may the sun, blessingI chose the slide above from the presentation made by the keynote speaker and founder of Conscious Travel, Anna Pollock. It is a beautiful saying from Malaysia, that captures how the very wise indigenous people see our planet. The Native Americans knew/know how precious our wondrous planet is, they used only what they needed to live. They did not have laws, they did not need them. They looked out for each other and lived peacefully, and America was bountiful. Then the white man came and brought the evils of egos and empires, and America changed beyond recognition. It’s the same in most countries. I haven’t gone off on a tangent, it’s not too late to listen to what they say, it’s not too late to save this planet. But . . . . .

Reading what had been said at the conference by representatives of different countries and of the UNWTO; I, and many others, were filled with a new hope. No more of the old industrial model of mass tourism, but a new respect for what each country has, their unique cultures and characteristics.

And now there is a race to save Ecuador’s Yasuni national park from the oil lobby. Green groups are frantically campaigning for a petition to force a national referendum to block President Correa’s unilateral sanction for drilling. Yet again, it’s all about the money and not nature that gives us life.

Talk is easy, the annual conferences have ‘leaders’ of tourism, saying wonderfully scripted promises for the future – but it is action we need. Action and a shared aim to conserve and celebrate what we have and not just go on developing for its own sake. We do not need same old, same old . . . . We need determined change, we need commitments from governments to make the changes. 

Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Wat Phonm.

WatPhnom_PhnomPenh_2005_2When we visited Cambodia this year, it was mainly because my son had said it was such a beautiful country and the people were too. He wasn’t wrong, Cambodia is fascinating.

We stayed at local little hotels in Siem Reap and Phnom Phen and travelled the distant between them by local coach. We were trying to travel as consciously as possible, so we used local transport, local tuktuk drivers, local hotels, local shops and local street food places. And we had a ball, I can’t begin to tell you how much we enjoyed getting to know more about the people and their culture.

Phnom Penh is the capital city of Cambodia and has been since the mid 15th century; (prior to that it was Angkor).  It’s former name was Chaktomuk, (the Four Faces) meaning it was situated at the four-branched confluence of the Mekong River. Legend has it that a local woman, Old Lady Penh (Duan Penh), was living by the chaktomuk and one day a floating koki tree went past, which she hooked out. Inside the tree she found four Buddha statues and one of Wat Shrine_outside_Wat_PhnomVishnu. This was seen as a divine blessing for the area and she raised a hill and built a shrine (now known as Wat Phonm) atop it to house them. ‘Phonm’ is Khmer for ‘hill’ and the hill took on the name of its founder. So the capital was moved from Angkor to what was to become Phnom Penh.

Cambodia had many different countries try to take over, the last one was France. The French stayed in control for most of the first half of the 20th century. As the population grew (in 1939 there were 109,000) the city continued to expand and the wetlands to the west were drained to accommodate this.

Cambodia became independent of France in 1954 and was relatively peaceful and until 1970 when there was the Lon Not coup. This was the beginning of the war between the government and the communist Khmer Rouge. The city finally fell to the Khmer Rouge in 1975 with the deaths of thousands of people. Between December 1978 to January 1979, the invading Vietnamese army managed to free the city and then, the country.

IMG_0127Phnom Penh was a shambles but slowly people returned; raising the population figures from 100,000 at the end of 1979 to 615,000 by 1990. As part of a UN brokered deal, national elections were held in 1993 and the country proudly became its own master as last.  The 21st century has seen expansion everywhere and the population rose to over 2,000,000.

We would love to go back again, there is so much to explore and we only managed a small part of it. The welcome is genuine, you won’t want to leave.

Cambodia ~ proud and gentle people

DSC01030The recent Cambodian election, of 28th July, has shown the huge rift that has grown in the country between the long serving and politically ambitious Prime Minister Hun Sen and the Cambodian people. Yesterday, Reuters posted this article; “Opposition vows mass protest over Cambodian election deadlock”.

Although Cambodia is a democracy, Hun Sen has ruled the country with an iron fist and has put himself in a very powerful position. Sadly, he is more of a dictator than a Prime Minister and has lost much support because of his actions in granting land to foreign companies to make use of; without any thought for the Cambodian people living there. They are being evicted and given nowhere to go. The youth of the country want a fairer country, not one that has a huge divide between the vast majority of the population and the rich of the Cambodian Peoples Party (CPP).

IMG_0150This week is Indigenous People’s Week and the people want their country back. The land grab has both appalled and angered them, and has led to a resurgence of the opposition to the CPP.

We went to Cambodia earlier this year. It was a country where we found happiness and wonder. Where the people were generous with their time and their pride in their country. Where we would happily return.

This current situation is so completely different to what we experienced, the feelings must be running very high.  The ‘real’ election result will be announced on Thursday.  After all this country has suffered, we can only hope it will go in favour of the people.

Samoa and falling in love (number 2)

IMG_1295Samoa and Paradise in the same sentence is as natural as bread and butter! You really don’t need any rose tinted glasses – the beauty is there in all its glory.

Vailima - the home of Robert Louis Stevenson - now a museum.

Vailima – the home of Robert Louis Stevenson – now a museum.

It’s where Robert Louis Stevenson settled and made his home after saying, during an amazing long voyage of discovery; ”For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move; to feel the needs and hitches of our life more nearly; to come down off this feather-bed of civilisation, and find the globe granite underfoot and strewn with cutting flints.”

It’s where Rupert Brooke said, “Sheer beauty, so pure that it is difficult to breathe it in”.

It’s where we went and found peace, tranquillity, beauty and smiles.

It’s where you can soothe your soul and saturate your senses.

It’s the sacred centre of the Polynesian Islands.

It’s the treasured islands of Samoa.

It’s Paradise.

DSC01760DSC01759IMG_1297And why do I wax so lyrical, why is it Paradise? Because it is virtually unspoilt – you can tell it is Samoa by how the buildings are crafted by hand from natural, local materials (apart from a couple of white, modern government buildings looking totally out of place).

The artistry and the purpose of traditional Samoan houses, resorts, fales are what makes Samoa unique. It really is like the sense of being enveloped in a great big hug, you feel safe and cherished. The wondrous thing is that it has stayed true to its heritage, so far it hasn’t let big business come in and spoilt its beauty. There are so many beautiful islands that the corporates have invaded and taken over – and always to the detriment of the environment and its true roots.  For those who want to get close to the country, its natural wonder and the people and their culture, it remains one of the best places in the world to do this.

It is Paradise because of the beauty of the flowers and plants, the beauty of its natural landscapes and the beauty of its people – but all that’s for another post!

Peace and love.

Cambodia ~ haystacks and happiness

When I was young, oh my goodness, I should say younger, sounds better, I used to love seeing all the haystacks in the farmers’ fields.  They always made me think of summer, sun and fun. They’ve disappeared from view in the UK and have been replaced by great big ugly black plastic wrapped bales – nothing happy looking about them!


This year we went on a big friendly giant adventure #BFGAdventure and we found them.  They’ve been there all along – in Cambodia.  We were on a coach from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap and were already in a state of pure wonder and bedazzlement, having spent the previous day at Angkor Wat.

Suddenly everyone on the coach looked out of the window to try and find the source of me screaming, ‘Oh look, look, look!’  And there they were in all their glory – haystacks! The houses are very simple and built on stilts and next to them or in front of them were these conical shapes. Happy days.


Samoa and falling in love

What country has had this said of it?

“Sheer beauty, so pure that it is difficult to breathe it in”


and of the people,

“The loveliest people in the world, moving and dancing like gods and goddesses, very quietly and mysteriously, and utterly content”

The country is the sacred centre of the Polynesian Islands. The country is Samoa.

The speaker of these words was the talented and tragic Rupert Brooke, who, during World War I, wrote ”The Soldier” (If I should die, think only this of me: That there’s some corner of a foreign field that is forever England.) and Granchester (oh! yet stands the Church clock at ten to three? And is there honey still for tea?)

I visited Samoa this year; it is everything and more that Rupert Brooke said. The islands are still mostly unspoilt, there are smiles and happiness everywhere. It is just like Paradise would be.

Samoa, saturates your senses and soothes your soul.

We travelled around and stayed at different types of places, all local of course.  I’m very much a responsible traveller and like to get close to the local cultures and people whenever possible. So the places we stayed at were all locally owned, the shops we bought from were all local and the places we ate were all local.  That way you know it is benefiting both you and your hosts; you because you learn and experience so much and your hosts because the money exchanged stays local.

IMG_1187I’m not sure whether it was at the airport or when we arrived at The Orator that I knew I’d fallen in love with Samoa. So much beauty, so much care and so many smiles. And . . . pineapples growing in the garden!  And the food, oh dear, all ideas of being good and counting calories went out of the window – delicious!

IMG_1213We marvelled at the beauty all around us and the flowers, so absolutely splendid. We took the bus into Apia town and went out for long walks. I ‘m not exaggerating when I quote Louis Armstrong;

Yes, I think to myself,
What a wonderful world.

Our next stop was at the ferry to the island of Savai’i.  We stayed at La Legoto, which was glorious. Our beach front fale was not made from wood and straw but it was definitely built by locals.  The views were to die for and the sky was blue ~ deep sigh of contentment.


DSC01667IMG_1249I could sit and just look out to sea for hours, so serene, so good for the soul. As with elsewhere, the people were so friendly and so lovely and genuine; the place was, well you can see for yourself, soooooooo easy on the eyes, so stunning; and the food was delicious. The plants and flowers were a joy to behold.  There are tons more IMG_1247superlatives and adjectives I could use, but the word Paradise keeps popping back in my mind.

To be continued . . . .